Dear strangers: Apparently I learned nothing about just how dangerous you and your shady vehicles can be while I was growing up. How else do I explain my recent habit of jumping at the chance whenever I hear the foodie equivalent of “Hey kid – want some candy?”
Unfortunately, I don’t think it’s going to end anytime soon. My previous experience with Pipe Dreams chevre and my trip to a parking lot just off of Route 50 to buy charcuterie from Chef Jamie Stachowski in December have been unqualified wins. With food this good coming out of vans and beat up old Isuzu Troopers, who needs Harris Teeter?
On the Sunday morning before Christmas, I was randomly checking out Don Rockwell when I came across a topic labeled “Stachowski Charcuterie.” Intrigued, I opened up the thread and found a message from Chef Stachowski giving a time, place and password for people to meet up with him and purchase some of his amazing cured and uncured meats.
“Would you mind if I took a quick run out to Arlington to buy meat from the back of a truck?” I asked Elizabeth.
“Seriously?”
In most households, this one word response would be delivered with a tone that said, “What could possibly make you think this is a good idea, regardless of who the chef is?” Thankfully, Elizabeth was just as taken with the concept as I was, so the real subtext was more along the lines of “Why would you even waste the time to ask me about such an obviously good idea?”
With an eager smile (mine) and a bemused smirk (hers) I headed out. What awaited me was about as surreal as you might expect.
As I drove out Route 50, I placed a call to our good friend the Bacon Terrorist. I was fairly certain he’d never forgive me if I waited until after the fact to tell him about this. True to form, his response was something along the lines of “I’m on my way.”
Chef Stachowski was very clear in his post – he would be driving a beat-up Isuzu Trooper and would be selling between 12 and 2 PM. I figured I’d be able to meet him right at noon, buy my meats, and still make it back to DC in plenty of time to attend a christening. Just your average Sunday, right?
Unfortunately, there was something about a guy driving a junked Trooper so close to Fort Myer that made some people suspicious, so Stachowski was pulled over en route. He didn’t make it to the appointed rendezvous until 12:20, but when he did it was like Christmas had come early – and not just because he was wearing a Santa hat and beard.
“Hang on,” Stachowski said, holding up his hand. “What’s the password?”
We all looked at each other – this was the real deal! Each one of us in turn gave the arranged signal – “chacha” – and Stachowski was open for business.
As he set up his scale and starting unwrapping pate de campagne, I couldn’t shake a series of movie images: Ray Liotta in Goodfellas, Johnny Depp in Blow, Al Pacino in Scarface. Exaggeration? Maybe. But the the scene did bear a striking resemblance to your average movie depiction of a drug dealer’s den.
In addition to the linked fresh kielbasa, the boudin and the various pates and terrines that Stachowski advertised, he had a box of dry-cured salami, bloomy white with edible surface mold. They were even tied with string, perfect for hanging and creating your own version of the set of That’s Amore!
It was hard limiting myself to just a few choices, but I ended up leaving with a salami, two links of kielbasa and a package of boudin blanc. The salami would accompany us to New Jersey, where it would be put to the test on the traditional antipasto trays of my Italian family. General consensus? Stachowski’s salami was silky and full-flavored, with less salt than commercial brands. The fat content was a bit on the high side, but that definitely added to the richness.
Stachowski recommended poaching the kielbasa in water or broth before finishing it on the grill or in a sautee pan. Eager to put his advice into practice, I cooked up the first kielbasa the very next night. It came out tasting like a wonderfully spiced sausage, with a casing that offered a crisp snap with each bite. This was nothing like the pink smoked rounds you find in the grocery store…it was a great example of what a dedicated chef can do when he focuses on his passion.
With his recent departure from Thirsty Bernie, Stachowski is preparing to do exactly that. Take another look at the wrapping on that salami – you’ll see the logo and contact information for Stachowski Charcuterie, his new retail and wholesale venture. Needless to say, that’s going to take a while to get all the moving parts (and USDA certifications) in place. For now, the website isn’t active yet but you can contact Stachowski by phone or via email at jamiestachowski@gmail.com, and he’ll get you a price list so you can place your own order.
Until then, I’m perfectly happy making my purchases on the sly from the back of the Trooper.
January 7, 2009 at 11:28 am
That was a lot of fun buying stuff from a junky trooper 🙂 I got 4 kielbasa links that day. My wife’s family is of polish decent and we brought some to upstate NY for Christmas. We had a polish brunch with homemade pirogies, homemade babka, and of course Stachowski kielbasa. Needless to say it was a hit. In fact most commented it was the best fresh kielbasa they had. Goood times.
January 7, 2009 at 11:40 am
My husband bought some of the kielbasa that day, and we took it with us to New York for Christmas brunch with my Polish family. Everyone loved it, and my 90-year-old grandmother kept saying that it tasted like she was in her mother’s kitchen. I cannot imagine better praise!
January 7, 2009 at 12:43 pm
At least you didn’t buy no bathtub cheese.
That’s what they sell from the back of vans in LA and it gives you a rare form of TB that is called the M. bovis bug and is resistant to front-line drug therapy and as a result adults who contract it are more than twice as likely as those with traditional TB to die before treatment is complete.
They seized 375 pounds of last year in a raid in my home county.
January 7, 2009 at 2:47 pm
MMM, when is this guy setting up shop in his Trooper again?
January 7, 2009 at 11:45 pm
Chaofun and jchao – Definitely had a good time that day. It was great getting to meet you, Chaofun, and I’m glad to hear your wife’s family responded to the kielbasa as well as we did. I’m jealous that you got to have them with homemade pierogies!
RJS – I wish I could definitively say that I’d pass on the bathtub cheese, but my recent track record suggests I’d at least consider it. Sounds like scary stuff, though.
Kate – Not sure when he’ll do another guerilla run like this, but Chef Stachowski is definitely taking orders over the phone and via email. Give him a call or write him – you’ll be glad you did!
January 8, 2009 at 11:18 pm
i’m not sure you can call it “charcuterie” if it comes out of the back of a car. like “wine” in a box, or “cheese” in those trifold plastic wrappers. i guess quality is quality, damn the health department….
January 10, 2009 at 6:12 pm
I have to admit, what I tried that morning was delicious. It went well with all the candy and cake that morning. And at dinner, Grandpa called it “au-tentic” and “the real stuff”. I know better than to argue with Grandpa…
April 14, 2009 at 8:06 am
[…] tried so far, the only disappointment has been the salami. Though it had the rich meatiness of other homemade salamis we’ve had, it lacked seasoning and tasted a bit bland. In the future, we’ll hold out […]
April 30, 2009 at 8:05 am
[…] in a national publication (thanks, Whitney!) -Our first threatened lawsuit -Our first (and second) experiences buying food from the backs of vehicles -Our first official freelance […]
September 4, 2009 at 7:56 am
[…] Sweet Onion Wing Sauce, Peachberry Preserves, Wasabi Ketchup, Apple Butter, and lots more… Stachowski Brand Charcuterie Arlington, VA. No need to buy from the back of a trooper…well, unless you want to. Come in for […]
November 12, 2009 at 8:55 pm
[…] I got mine at Red, White, & Blue in Falls Church, VA. They carry delicious fresh meats from Stachowski Charcuterie, which can otherwise be rather difficult to obtain if you don’t know where to […]
January 16, 2010 at 12:54 pm
Hey, in case you didn’t know, the beat up Trooper now has a slot at the Saturday morning Falls Church market at Falls Church city hall. I’m totally in love after tasting the samples, so I googled and found this blog entry. Now please don’t go buying up the stuff before I get there next Saturday!